How To Make Silicone Skin
How To Make a Castor‑On Mold Using Dragon Pare™ Silicone Rubber
Overview
Dragon Skin™ 10 FAST is a high operation platinum cure silicone rubber that can be mixed 1A:1B by weight or volume and cures at room temperature with negligible shrinkage to a Shore 10A. Cured Dragon Pare™ is very soft, very stiff and very "stretchy". It will stretch many times its original size without tearing and will rebound to its original form without baloney.
This stretchiness makes Dragon Skin™ 10 FAST ideal for creating 1 piece glove molds. A Dragon Skin™ mold tin be turned completely inside out without adventure of tearing. This means castings tin can be removed without cutting the mold, leaving no visible flashing common with many mold configurations
Materials Used in this Tutorial
- Dragon Skin 10 Fast
- FlexFoam-information technology X
- Plasti-Paste
- Thi-Vex
- Ease Release 2831
- Ease Release 200
- Silc Pig
- Sonite Wax
- Universal Mold Release
- SO-Strong Colorants
- Hot Melt Glue
- Melamine Board
- Paint Brushes
- Mixing Sticks
- Mixing Containers
- Permanent Mark
- Sulfur Free Modeling Clay
- Sculpting Tools
- Dremel Tool
- Bolts
- Sand Paper
Pace one: Preparing Model
Earlier starting, gather your materials. In this example the original model is made of difficult plastic.
First begin by using hot melt glue to secure the original model to a baseboard. Employ a thorough coat of Ease Release® 200 release agent over the entire model. This will assistance in removing the original from the cured silicone mold.
Footstep ii: Dispensing, Mixing and Applying Commencement Layer of Dragon Pare ten Fast
After yous have prepared your model, premix both parts of Dragon Skin 10 Fast. Once pre-mixed, measure out an equal volume of both Part A and Part B of Dragon Skin® 10 Fast. Dispense Part B into a larger mixing container. Add together Silc-Sus scrofa® Fleshtone pigment to Function B. Pigmenting the naturally translucent Dragon Skin® silicone will aid ensure a thorough cover over the entire model.
Thoroughly mix paint into Role B prior to adding Part A. Make sure you have no striations betwixt the Part B and the Silc Pig® pigment. Then add Function A to the pigmented Part B and thoroughly mix them together. Be certain to scrape the sides and bottom of mixing container several times. By pigmenting one part of the silicone, it is easy to run into if material has been mixed properly. Continue mixing until there are no color striations.
Dragon Peel® 10 Fast is naturally adequately depression in viscosity, therefore it is of import to thicken the material prior to applying it to the model. Add a capful of Thi-Vex® II silicone thickening amanuensis and mix it in thoroughly. Once thoroughly mixed, the thickened Dragon Peel® should yet exist somewhat running only thick enough to concord a vertical. Thickness tin can exist modified to suit the mold maker's preference depending on the corporeality of Thi-Vex® added.
You can now brainstorm applying Dragon Pare® 10 Fast to the original model. The starting time layer of a brush-on mold should be thin. This will assist eliminate whatsoever adventure of bubble entrapment. Examine the model from all viewpoints (even below) to ensure thorough coverage. Employ Dragon Skin® 10 Fast over the entire model and begin building a flange 3'' (8 cm) around the base of the model. After you have completed the first layer allow the rubber to cure until tacky prior to applying adjacent layer (approximately 45 minutes).
Step 3: Dispensing, Mixing, Applying Second Layer of Dragon Skin 10 Fast
After yous accept allowed the starting time layer to cure tacky, outset mixing a second thickened batch of Dragon Peel® 10 Fast. Add a different Silc-Pig® pigment to alternating layers will help ensure thorough coverage over the entire model. And then add and mix some other capful of Thi-Vex® to thicken the Dragon Skin® 10 Fast. Once your Part A, Function B and Thi-Vex are fully mixed, apply a second coat of Dragon Skin® 10 Fast.
In the example, the green pigment contrasts well with the previous layer, but it is yet important to view the model from all angles to ensure thorough coverage. Apply Dragon Skin® x Fast over the unabridged model and continue building a flange 3'' (8 cm) around the base of the model.
Y'all have then completed 2d layer. Allow the rubber to cure until tacky prior to applying next layer (approximately 45 minutes).
Step 4: Applying Third and Thickened Layers of Dragon Peel 10 Fast
Mix a third batch of Dragon Skin® 10 Fast and add fleshtone pigment. Again, add together and mix another capful of Thi-Vex® to thicken the Dragon Skin® 10 Fast.
Now apply your third layer of Dragon Skin® 10 Fast over the entire model. Continue building a flange 3'' (8 cm) effectually the base of operations of the model. You lot have then completed tertiary layer. Allow rubber to cure until tacky prior to applying next layer (approximately 45 minutes).
Mix another pigmented batch of Dragon Skin® 10 Fast. This batch is going to be used to make full in deep areas and undercuts. Add more than Thi-Vex® than previous layers to thicken the material until it is no longer runny. For this batch, the thickened Dragon Skin® 10 Fast should take a consistency like peanut butter. Use the thickened material to fill up in undercuts and deep areas (nether the eyebrow, nose and chin). Smooth out edges of thickened areas to blend with the remainder of the mold.
* Mold Maker's Tip: Use thickened cloth to create raised areas to serve every bit keys. These keys will aid align the Dragon Skin® mold with the rigid support vanquish.
Completed thickened layer. Allow rubber to cure until tacky prior to applying next layer (approximately 45 minutes).
Pace v: Applying Final Layer of Dragon Skin
Mix another batch of Dragon Skin® 10 Fast with greenish Silc-Pig® paint added. Add together and mix a capful of Thi-Vex® to thicken the Dragon Skin® ten Fast. Apply a fourth glaze of Dragon Skin® 10 Fast. This layer will serve to both further build mold thickness, but more importantly it will smooth out whatever unevenness from previous layers.
Complete quaternary and last layer and allow Dragon Skin® 10 Fast mold to fully cure prior to moving to next step (approximately 75 minutes).
Pace 6: Preparing Mold For Support Shell
This mold requires a multi-piece back up shell. Begin by planning out where the support trounce will split to prevent mechanical lock.
Using a marker, draw a line over the high points of the model along the pause points. The support beat volition be created in three parts. The back of the model is side 1. The forepart of the model is divide in two parts along the center of the face.
Clay can be used to build shims forth the marked loftier points. Begin by building the clay shim to dissever department ane (back of model) from the other sections. Be careful to build dirt on one side of the marked line so that the support crush material can be applied in the planned location. Use sculpting tools to cut keys into the clay shim. Keys will help the support shell lock together tightly when casting. Completed dirt shim.
Step 7: Applying the First Office of the Plasti-Paste Support Shell
The support shell will exist created with Plasti-Paste® filled urethane plastic, which is highly agglutinative. Prior to applying Plasti-Paste®, brush Sonite® Wax over all surfaces the back up crush material will touch. Spray an even coat of Universal® Mold Release over all surfaces that will come in contact with Plasti-Paste®. Smooth-On's Plasti-Paste® filled urethane plastic is designed for use as a support beat out. It is mixed in a ratio of 1 Role A to 2 Parts B by book. Mix and use the get-go batch of Plasti-Paste®.
Plasti-Paste® has a relatively short working time (approximately 10 minutes). Information technology is often all-time to piece of work with several minor batches rather than i large batch. Build Plasti-Paste® support shell to an ultimate thickness of three/8'' (1 cm). Allow Plasti-Paste® to fully cure (approximately 90 minutes) before moving to the next step. One time department i has fully cured, remove clay shim and use a Dremel tool to trim precipitous edges and corners.
Stride viii: Preparing and Building Part 2 of the back up beat out
Build a new clay shim to separate the front halves of the support beat. Cut keys into the clay shim.
Plasti-Paste® will stick to itself if not properly released, so begin by brushing Sonite® Wax over all surfaces. Spray an even coat of Universal Mold Release over all surfaces that will come in contact with Plasti-Paste®. Mix and utilize Plasti-Paste® to department 2. Build Plasti-Paste® support shell to an ultimate thickness of 3/8'' (one cm). Allow Plasti-Paste® to fully cure (approximately 90 minutes) before proceeding to the next footstep.
One time section 2 has fully cured, remove clay shim. Utilise a Dremel tool to trim precipitous edges and corners.
Step 9: Applying Third Part of Support Shell and Demolding Original
Brush Sonite® Wax over all surfaces. Spray an fifty-fifty coat of Universal Mold Release over all surfaces. Mix and apply Plasti-Paste® to section iii. Build Plasti-Paste® support shell to an ultimate thickness of three/8'' (1 cm). Permit Plasti-Paste® to fully cure (approximately xc minutes). Edges can be sharp and uneven then y'all can sand all edges polish to brand handling the mold easier.
Bolts tin can be used to help lock the back up shell sections together securely. Begin past drilling holes between sections. Bolts can too be placed though the top department of the back up beat. Now the shell can be securely bolted together. Split up vanquish sections and remove the original model from the mold.
Step ten: Preparing & Casting FlexFoam-iT X
The hollow mold cavity is ready for casting. Smooth-On's FlexFoam-information technology® 10 tin be used to make a lightweight reproduction. Expanding urethane foams, like Smoothen-On'due south Foam-it!® and Flexfoam-information technology!® series, produce the best particular and fill up mold cavities amend when back pressure is used. Back pressure tin can be applied by laying a board over the open cavity while the cream expands. Drill holes in the lath for adequate pressure release while the foam is expanding inside the mold.
Of import: Utilize a liberal coat of Ease Release® 2831 over the board and into all holes to release the cream from the melamine lath.
Mix FlexFoam-information technology® 10 in a ratio of 1 Part A to 1 Office B past volume. And then dispense Function B into a larger mixing container and add SO-Strong® Green tint. Thoroughly mix the tint into Part B prior to adding Role A. Combine Part A with tinted Part B.
Quickly, however thoroughly, mix Parts A and B. Be certain to scrape sides and bottom of the mixing container.
Reminder: FlexFoam-iT!® X has a 50 second working time - it is important to move quickly. For all-time results, exercise a double mix.
Start by pouring the entire mixture into a 2nd container. Continue mixing until there are no color striations present. Pour mixture into the mold cavity.
Mold Maker's Tip: Rolling the entire mold will help ensure FlexFoam-information technology!® achieves thorough coverage over all surfaces.
Allow the foam to pour to the very border of the mold cavity prior to turning to next side. Continue turning the mold until all interior surfaces are covered. Once the cream begins to expand, return the mold to a vertical position and allow cream to ascent. Embrace the mold opening with the board created in previous steps. Position the board with holes centered over the cavity. Press downwardly firmly equally the pressure from the ascension cream tin force the board out of position. Depending on the pressure level, locking straps may be necessary to keep the board in place. FlexFoam-information technology!® X expands half-dozen times its original volume and develops a uniform x lb./cu. ft. cell structure. Excess cream will rise out of the holes in the board creating ''mushroom caps'' on the summit of the board. Using a scraper, remove the backlog foam. The board can then be removed from the opening of the mold.
Stride xi: Demold / Finishing
Once the FlexFoam-information technology!® X has fully cured (approximately 2 hours) the casting can be removed from the mold. Begin by removing the bolts and taking autonomously the support shell sections. So remove the Dragon Skin® mold by rolling the edges up the base of operations of the casting. Continue stretching and rolling the mold carefully over loftier points of the cream casting. Ultimately the Dragon Skin® x Fast mold is completely inverted to allow for removal of the casting. Dragon Pare® is one of the only silicone rubbers that is both strong and stretchy enough to permit for this kind of manipulation repeatedly.
The finished castings reverberate perfect particular captured by the Dragon Skin® silicone. Many castings tin be produced from a single mold.
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Source: https://www.smooth-on.com/tutorials/making-brush-mold-dragon-skin-silicone-rubber/
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